Author Topic: Weather seals seals - 1977 Transam (Read 19202 times)

joe74ta · « **Reply #10 on:** February 14, 2011, 03:25:36 PM »

Here's a link to Pro touring F Body
Click here

LeighP is a member of this club and he handles the NSW distribution for them.

1977 Transam · « **Reply #11 on:** February 14, 2011, 03:29:15 PM »

No link was attached thanks Joe.

joe74ta · « **Reply #12 on:** February 14, 2011, 03:42:08 PM »

click where it says (click here) in my post above

1977 Transam · « **Reply #13 on:** February 14, 2011, 03:54:48 PM »

Thanks Joe.

I'll have to look into them.

If they just bolt in I will get them done after changing the weather seals and fixing the windscreen.

Anything to fix the handling.

LeighP · « **Reply #14 on:** February 15, 2011, 12:11:29 AM »

Hi,
Pro-Touring F-Body Sub Frame Connectors can be both bolted or welded or a combination (weld to the unibody/bolt to the subframe).
They require no floor mods and have almost no impact on ground clearance. There are a few brands out there, be sure to choose a brand that joins the subframe to the rear rails...not to the spring mount bolts. Other brands like DSE (Detroit Speed and Equipment) are "weld only" and require cutting the floor pans to fit.
Here are some pics of the PTFB connectors fitted on my project -

These are $299 plus shipping, or can be picked up at Ingleburn. I have one set in stock at the moment....there are a few more sets on order, but they surface ship so can take 8-10 weeks to show up.
Easy to fit, drilling the holes can be a little awkward on the rear rail, but not too bad. The connectors themselves fit very nicely.

You can call me on 0417680623 if you'd like to discuss these parts, or any other pieces you find on the website at http://www.pro-touringf-body.com/

NOTE - the manufacturer recommends solid body mounts when welding these connectors in - or polyurethane or solid mounts when bolting them in. You can see the solid mounts in one of my pics.

1977 Transam · « **Reply #15 on:** February 15, 2011, 07:07:31 AM »

I was looking at these last night. I've got to find out about ground clearances though.

https://pontiworld.com.au/usgmsp/product_info.php?cPath=46_127&products_id=6962

how do the pro touring ones compare to these please leigh or are they much the same?

LeighP · « **Reply #16 on:** February 15, 2011, 03:55:35 PM »

Well, the ones shown there are the Moroso/Competition Engineering "Weld-In" style connectors. They require the floor pan to be modified and they move the front spring eye inboard....they are a pretty serious modification which also would require offset rear shackles and relocating the spring perches on the diff housing. They are used when running very wide wheels and minitubs.

Moroso/Competition Engineering also make bolt in connectors - they do not move the spring eye mount inboard. These are the ones that I referred to that are captured by dropping the spring front eye mount, sandwiching the connector between the body and the spring eye mount then bolting it up...two of the three bolts on the eye mount secure the connector. The front of the connector slides into the rear of the frame and is captured between the rear body mount and the subframe. There are specific models for early and late subframes due to the rear mounts being aprox 2" further forward on 75+ F-body frames. If you order these connectors, be sure to order P/N C3114.

Personally, when I went to buy connectors for my car, I looked at what was on the market and chose PTFB connectors as they were strong and simple, had a good reputation and they tied the subframe to the chassis rail, rather than just clamping the connector between the spring eye mount and the body.

1977 Transam · « **Reply #17 on:** February 15, 2011, 05:34:43 PM »

Thanks for the info Leigh.

It's a modification I want to do now that I know more about it. Just need to work on getting the weather seals done then I'll try and find someone who can install something like this.

Who knows maybe even my office hands can do the bolt in connectors. he he.

LeighP · « **Reply #18 on:** February 15, 2011, 05:41:48 PM »

Most any workshop could fit these for you....not hard at all.
Try SMS Performance (member sms777), he's a reputable workshop that club members frequent....knows USA cars.
My pick would be weld at the rear on the rail, bolt at the front on the subframe...this would be the easiest/quickest install method.
I didn't weld at the rear on my car because, frankly, I weld the way I dance...badly....lol.

1977 Transam · « **Reply #19 on:** February 15, 2011, 05:53:19 PM »

I'd be the same way with my welding Leigh. I've only done it once before.

I'll have a chat to Chris. Just trying to ensure that I can return the car to original if need be and have as much clearance as possible.

If I can do both of those then I'm happy to spend the time and money.